WATCHES & WONDERS 2020: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus in Machina and Excalibur Twofold
The Manufacture Roger Dubuis celebrates 25 years of creativity with two horological masterpieces based on the brand’s iconic model – The Excalibur.
Roger Dubuis celebrates 25 years in 2020 but instead of reissuing a model from the past, the manufacture decided to launch an even more original approach to what haute horlogerie means today. As this was the spirit of the founder who passed away in 2017.
Excalibur Diabolus in Machina
Roger Dubuis has decided to upgrade the Minute Repeater complication, considered to be the most challenging complication in the world of haute horlogerie. Normally, the wearer can check the time using a pushpiece that activates a ring tone with a low pitch for the hours, a high pitch for the minutes, and two tones for the quarter hours. From this point on, Roger Dubuis succeeded in adding functions that have never existed before and that are useful as well as original. First, positioned at 11 o’clock, there is a disc marked with the words Hours, Quarters and Minutes that starts to turn as soon as the minute repeater is activated, visually illustrating the time intervals being chimed. A second functional indicator – in the form of a lever placed between 3 o’clock and 4 o’clock – instantly lets the wearer know whether the watch is in “manual winding” or “time setting” position. This visual safety feature is extremely important as adjusting the watch while the minute repeater is playing can damage the movement. The list of original features continues with another safety function for the mechanism. The minute repeater’s push piece has been embellished with a mechanism called “all or nothing”. Only allowing the minute repeater to be triggered if the pusher has been fully and completely pressed. The sounds of the minute repeater are also a premiere for watches being inspired by a famous tritone outlawed in medieval religious music. The manufactured mechanism comes with a flying tourbillon and a power reserve of 60 hours, everything skeletonized inside a 45 mm diameter case.
Excalibur Diabolus in Machina is a unique piece.
The new member of the Excalibur family, initially launched in March, represents three world premieres. With a 45mm case, the glacial look of Excalibur Twofold is enhanced by the bezel and the case created in Mineral Composite Fiber (MCF), an ultra-white composite material made of 99.95% silica and, specifically developed by Roger Dubuis. The Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) process mastered by Roger Dubuis engineers enables the Manufacture to play with this unique Mineral Composite Fiber.
For the first time, a patented process was developed to light up every angle of the upper plate of the movement composed of MCF. Luminescent at night and lasting 60% longer than standard luminescent material commonly used.
The third premiere comes as the Twofold strap made from a specific FKM rubber that it is also luminescent, based on a world-first technology named “LumiSuperBiwiNova™” that makes part of the strap luminescent glow in the dark like a nocturnal signature.
Excalibur Twofold uses the iconic Roger Dubuis double flying tourbillon manual-wound calibre and it is available in a limited edition of 8 pieces.