GPHG Geneva 2024

The company’s first secular perpetual calendar is based on the same synchronized design as the regular perpetual calendar, meaning all its displays can be advanced via a single crown.
While the perpetual calendar needs an adjustment in centurial years which are not leap years, the secular perpetual calendar is mechanically programmed to consider these exceptions. Thanks to a newly engineered 400-year gear, which completes just one revolution every four centuries, the calendar will skip three leap years over 400 years – an event that will take place in the year 2100 for the first time. The eternal calendar will calculate the leap year correctly until at least 3999, as no official decision has been taken yet as to whether 4000 will be a leap year. Another highlight of this watch is the eternal moon phase display. IWC’s engineers have developed a moon phase display with unprecedented precision. After calculating many of more than 22 trillion possible combinations, they devised a reduction gear train comprising three intermediate wheels. The Double Moon™ indication, featuring a titanium base disc with two blue dots and a glass disc rotating above it, will – theoretically – only need an adjustment after 45 million years.

The Mirage watch comes from an independent watchmaker and it represents the first shaped watch to draw its asymmetry from its caliber, rather than from an external free shape. Drawn to let the mechanics go freely (large barrel, direct small second & pocket
watch style balance wheel), the movement escapes from the circle to then offer a combination of finesse and advanced performance. With its total absence of symmetry, the watch proposes one of the most courageous identities of the year and it almost seems like unreal before you have the chance to put in on the wrist and realize that the relation between its size and shape builds a harmonious proportion. The Mirage boasts an all-gold construction and is 100% SWISS MADE, being produced in small numbers – 12 pieces per
year.

Chopard was awarded the Eco-innovation Prize for its commitment to the values of Haute Horlogerie promoted by the Fleurier Quality Foundation as demonstrated by the new L.U.C Qualité Fleurier – the first watch to be awarded this label since Chopard became the sole
custodian of the Foundation in 2022. It is also the first in the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier family to be crafted in Lucent Steel™ – Chopard’s alloy featuring exclusive properties and produced with a recycling rate of at least 80%.

The exceptional creation of independent watchmaker Bernhard Lederer has taken the quest for precise timekeeping to a level never to be seen in the horological industry before.
Besides the certification by the COSC Institute, the watch has been subjected to testing and certification at three other prestigious institutions: the Observatory in Besancon, France, the one in Glashutte, Germany, and the “Observatory Chronometrique” in Geneva, Switzerland. One of the standout features of the Central Impulse Chronometer is the movement of the minute hand, which follows the rhythm of the remontoire d’égalité every 10 seconds.

With a passion fuelled by the works of the great watchmakers and notable marine chronometers of the late 18th and 19th centuries, Remy Cools seeks to continue the legacy of French fine watchmaking and perpetuate the traditional approach to haute horlogerie where artisanship, precision and superlative quality reign supreme. While the Tourbillon Atelier shares the same classically inspired yet instantly recognisable aesthetic as his subscription series, the movement itself as well as the case, dial, hands and crystal are all entirely new, designed and built from scratch for his first production series.

Presented initially in 1979, Piaget Polo went down in history as the model to define the spirit of the 1980s. In 2024, 45 years after its first launch, Piaget Polo 79 is reborn in a near to its original design but with updates regarding the quality of its finishings. Another notable
change is the use of an automatic calibre compared to the quartz movement of the original model and also a case slightly enlarged to 38 mm diameter.

The brand Daniel Roth founded thirty-five years ago by the watchmaker Daniel Roth – one of the first independent names in the industry – is now being relaunched with a Tourbillon that pays homage to the original design of the 1988. Executed in traditional yellow gold, a metal exclusive to this edition, the case of the Tourbillon Souscription is naturally a double ellipse. Under the dial is the in-house manufacture calibre DR001 conceived exclusively for DANIEL ROTH. The DR001 is manufactured entirely by La Fabrique du Temps, the Geneva workshop founded by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini – both master watchmakers who will personally oversee the creation of each DANIEL ROTH timepiece.

After the collection was initially awarded the GPHG Best Men’s Watch in 2010, Laurent Ferrier Classic is again chosen by the Jury this time for the new Moon Silver model, an Annual Calendar and the brand’s first ever moon phase complication. At the centre of the small seconds dial, an enigmatic dark blue moon disc represents the cycles of the moon.
First, Aventurine glass from Murano artisans is engraved to create the shape of the moon and stars with hand-applied white paint for the details.

For the first time in the history of watchmaking the Récital 28 Prowess 1 has solved the Daylight Savings Time issue that seemed impossible to all world timers until now. Collectors either had to set their world timers for the countries that changed or for the countries that didn’t change (today, only about a third of the world changes (70 countries)– either way, a large part of the world was always wrong. The Récital 28 Prowess 1 revolutionizes world timers because now, no matter the period of time during the year, the timepiece is always accurate.

The Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena LAB is a monopusher chronograph, crafted almost entirely by hand in the atelier of watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland. The watch is powered by a hand-wound movement with a fully integrated, column-wheel chronograph with a horizontal clutch, which can be started; paused; and reset using a single pusher located discreetly at the crown. The movement’s integrated chronograph complication, hand-finished by the watchmaker himself, is left exposed on the dial side and is a delight to observe.

MING is an independent watch brand with facilities in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Kuala Lumpur.
Production and assembly is in Switzerland, while design, engineering and final quality control takes place in Malaysia. After receiving the GPHG Horological Revelation Prize in 2019, MING is again awarded in 2024 for their 37.09 Bluefin diving watch, water resistant up
to 600m and animated by an automatic movement. Among its innovations, the watch features an internal rotating bezel and a crown for setting the timing dial that doesn’t need screwdown.

The DB Kind of Grande Complication is a veritable compendium of the core technical and aesthetic attributes that have been invented and built up over 22 years of innovation, research and creativity within the Manufacture. The watch represents an haute horlogerie unique performance found in a double face case displaying its several functions and combining eight different horological complications: perpetual calendar, spherical moon-phase indication, retrograde age of the Moon and leap years, ultra-light tourbillon in blued titanium, jumping seconds, power reserve as well as the double display of hours and minutes.

A watchmaker so far often awarded by the GPHG, Voutilainen returns again in 2024 with the KV20i Reversed, a timepiece dedicated to the most passionate collectors that enjoy admiring a new in-house caliber featuring a unique “back-to-front” construction. The movement is particularly remarkable due to its two escapement wheels, which provide a direct impulse to the balance through the roller/jewel. This innovative construction improves efficiency by requiring less energy than the classic escapement and allows for
notable benefits, for everyday use, such as longevity, stability and a longer power reserve.

Made of steel and measuring 39 mm in diameter, the cushion-shaped case of the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel model is meant to match a versatile lifestyle and it is inspired by the curves and roundness of the first high-speed trains of the 20s and 30s, from which it takes its name. To make it even more desirable, Moser has added a blue enamel dial and inside the case it mounted the new automatic calibre HMC 500 that is 100% Moser, 100% Manufacture-made. It is the smallest movement H. Moser & Cie. has developed in the 21st century.

Guided by Co-President and Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele the awarded secret watch showcases a pearl reflecting the chromatic splendor of a sapphire palette ranging from pastel blue to pink and violet surrounding and sculpting the captivating dial. Crafting this mesmerizing miniature ecosystem involves over 1,000 hours of fine workmanship. Made in ethical 18-carat rose and white gold and titanium set with pink, violet and pastel blue sapphires (totaling 10 carats), topaz (4.28 cts), a natural pearl (1.63 ct), emeralds (1.47 ct),
diamonds (1.28 ct) and purple, Demantoid and Mandarin garnets.

With this creation, the Maison brings to life a graceful silhouette picking flowers under the early morning sun. Light passes through generous leaves of white gold, plique-à-jour enamel and diamonds harbouring a field of flowers aglow in dazzling colors. Set with yellow sapphires, these blossoms are rendered in relief thanks to a new technique developed by Van Cleef & Arpels to offer the illusion of a boundless flowerbed: façonné enamel. Meticulously hand-sculpted, the feminine figure in white gold spreads her wings made from
sparkling, pearly-white plique-à-jour enamel for a luminous transparency effect.

This new creation brings corollas into bloom within the Van Cleef & Arpels garden. White and yellow gold butterflies rendered in plique-à-jour enamel not only tell the time, but flutter off thanks to an on-demand animation module that also breathes life into the flowers and their stems. Created in vallonné enamel, the corollas display azure nuances complemented by spessartite garnet pistils. Against the intensity of matte mother-of-pearl, the dial displays a poetic scene merging the foreground and background to illustrate
precious greenery.

Van Cleef & Arpels is reinventing the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch, introduced in 2008, with a new model 33-mm in diameter that required three years of development. The diamond-paved moon and stars perpetually pursue the sun, embellished with guilloché yellow gold. Featuring a 24-hour rotating disc, the dial revolves almost imperceptibly. Thanks to the depth effect of the Murano aventurine glass, Lady Jour Nuit watch portrays the immensity of the cosmos and the magic of a starry night.

OTSUKA LOTEC is a Japanese watch brand founded by the independent watchmaker Jiro
Katayama. The No.6, renewed in 2024, is inspired by an analog meter with a Japanese-fan-shaped display. The retrograde hour and minute hands are superimposed on each other and rotate on a single axis. It is equipped with a Japanese MIYOTA movement with an additional module designed and manufactured in-house, including the retrograde hour and minute hands, seconds disk in the center, and date display on the right. The watch impressed GPHG by its Japanese identity, original design and the attractive price of 2260 CHF.

With KUDOKE 3 independent watchmaker Stefan Kudoke has decided to choose an unconventional way of displaying the time. While the minutes are “traditionally” indicated by the large blued steel hand above the dial ring sitting at the top, the hour indication is
what makes this watch so exceptional. Placed on an attached plate and divided into three sections on the level below the upper dial, the hour is indicated with the help of a triple-armed hour hand – each hand with different lengths running between the two dials. When one arm of the hand reaches the end of the hour scale, the next longer or shorter arm appears at the beginning of the next hour scale. Hours 2, 6 and 10 are then shown twice on different scales before the current indicator moves on.